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Based a pattern on medieval findings, though I can't tell you which because I lost all my bookmarks and I can't be buggered to do all that research again right now.
The gores go in the slashes that are drawn (well there is only one drawn, but of course there's one on the other side). You should also make a slash at the back center and put a gore there, and put the last gore in the front center (where the gores are on the pattern). The brim gets folded completely over to meet the front opening.
If you use this pattern on DA, I'd like to see what you made.